The Best Birding Sites in SW Florida

After the usual cordial greetings on the trail, and after you eye the binoculars, camera, and lens of the encountered birder, several queries quickly work their way into the conversation. They are often equipment oriented, but frequently are also about ones favorite sites to see and photograph birds. Since there are many snowbirds and first-time visitors to Florida I thought I would list for them my favorite sites which we have visited many times over the last 20 years.

Roseate Spoonbill, Platalea ajaja

In an earlier post I have trumpeted the advantages of having a personal, local patch right outside your backdoor, and one that becomes familiar over years of frequent observation. This post, however, is about public sites in Southwest Florida.

Black Skimmer, Rynchops niger

I’m putting them in the order of my preference, but none are bad sites. In fact any day of birding at any location is enjoyable in my book. One’s choice of birding destination for the day often depends on target birds or rarities reported on eBird. The weather may factor in since some locations involve hiking, while others allow birding by auto. Here they are with a short note about each.

  1. Dinner Island Ranch
  2. Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary
  3. Eagle Lake Community Park
  4. Bird Rookery Swamp
  5. Turner River Road
  6. Ding Darling NWR on Sanibel Island
  7. Clam Pass
  8. Ten Thousand Islands Marsh Trail
  9. Harnes Marsh
  10. Tigertail Beach on Marco Island

I got a little push back from one of my birding companions about the first choice, since it is a 60 mile drive from Naples, way out in the old Florida hinterlands. It is so different from the other more frequented sites, but that is exactly why I love going there. This must be what our state looked like 100 years ago. The huge ranch has unfettered public access and numerous gravel roads traversing miles of flat grasslands, peppered with ponds and pine hummocks. There are grazing cattle with riding egrets, old corrals, and rarely another birder in sight. It’s my best chance to tick meadowlarks, kestrels, caracara, or an occasional Snail Kite. Pack a lunch and water. My life list there measures 62 species.

Eastern Meadowlark, Sturnella magna

Corkscrew is famous, and for good reason. Instead of the big sky and prairie of Dinner Island you’ll find a boardwalk through the cypress swamp, again a vestige of prior times. But this is a more civilized site with bookstore and gift shop, bathroom facilities, etc. You’ll share the boardwalk with many, but that is okay and a reflection of its beauty. Our recent trip was highlighted with good looks at 5 warblers, both buntings, 2 vireos and of course, several gigantic alligators.

Anhinga, Anhinga anhinga

Eagle Lake is just a short hop down Route 41, southeast of Naples. When you pull in you will wonder why such a site made my list, but be patient. Just past the parking lot, tennis courts, ball fields, and public restrooms you’ll find asphalt trails around several large collection ponds. The birds seem to love this suburban setting. Amongst the bikers and joggers we’ve seen several vagrants and rarities there. Whenever I have a new guest to Florida who wants to see birds, I take them to Eagle Lake. My life list there stands at 87 species, the greatest of all these sites.

Sandhill Crane, Antigone canadensis

Before you come to Corkscrew on Immokalee Road you’ll see an unassuming turnoff on the left called Shady Hollow Blvd. At the end of this road is the parking lot to the Bird Rookery Swamp, but slow down. There’s a lot to see on the approach road as it becomes a gravel drive and leaves the new houses behind. We often get great, close-up views or photos of 15+ species in the roadside ditch before we even get out of the car. This is a free site, less visited than the nearby Corkscrew, but similar in flora and fauna. You will first traverse a gravel path, then a boardwalk, and lastly a dirt trail with swamp on either side. A gator often lies across the trail–remember, they can move quickly if hungry. It’s a great spot for a Purple Gallinule and all the Florida waders.

Brown Pelican, Pelecanus occidentalis

Turner River Road (route 839) as the name suggests, is not a simple site, but instead a long road heading north through the unpopulated Big Cypress National Preserve. You’ll find it about 25 miles east of Naples on route 41. If you like to bird-by-auto and cover some miles this one’s for you. It makes sense on a day of iffy weather or when your hips are acting up. You can stop and get out for short walks and better photos along the way. There will be no traffic.

Great Blue Heron, Ardea herodias

Ding Darling on Sanibel Island is a nationally known hotspot. We were just there this week, our first trip since the devastating hurricane. Repairs and rebuilding are underway, but the sanctuary is open and its waders and shorebirds still abound. Bring a scope. It’s my best site for the prancing Reddish Egret and where I finally found a Mangrove Cuckoo.

White-eyed Vireo, Vireo griseus

Beach birding a Clam Pass is a treat. The pass is the inlet and outlet for the tidal mangrove swamp of North Naples. The fish must love the mixing of fresh and salt water and they, in turn attract the beach birds. I’ll often pull a chair among the lounging Black Skimmers and photograph the diving pelicans and terns, hoping for a shot just when the hit the water. Access from the south side of the pass is private, but the north side is a public, with just as good of view. You get to it from the end of Seagate Drive.

Reddish Egret, Egret rufescens

If you want to admire the endless vista of unspoiled Florida swamp, check out the tower at Ten Thousand Islands Park, again off route 41 east of Naples. The birds are generally at a distance, but you’re there for the sheer beauty of this unique habitat. Marjory Stoneman Douglas referred to it as the “River of Grass” in her classic book from 1947.

Mangrove Cuckoo, Coccyzus minor

Southwest Florida is all about water and water management. Canals, holding ponds, roadside ditches, and dikes are everywhere trying to control nature and make this area inhabitable. The Harnes Marsh, just east of Fort Myers is such a site, and a very bird friendly location. It’s great for a close up shot of Sandhill Cranes, Swamphens, and perhaps a flyover of a Snail Kite, Limpkin, or Northern Harrier if you’re lucky.

Burrowing Owl, Athene cunicularia

Lastly there is Tigertail Beach on Marco Island. As you drive through Marco look out for the stakes marking the location of the Burrowing Owls nesting on the vacant lots. It’s a great chance for a close up shot of the small photogenic birds. At the beach you will note several habitats. Trees around the parking lot host many passerines. On the first beach at the tidal estuary you’ll often see various peeps and waders. If you’re brave, roll up your pants and carry your expensive camera across the shallow tidal pool to the dunes where you’ll find the real ocean beach and its gulls, terns, and more shorebirds.

This post could go on forever since we are blessed with a birdy region, but I’ll spare you. Happy birding for now and let me know if I’ve omitted your favorite site.

The Seagull Nebula

The Seagull Nebula, IC2177

This is what you get when you allow a non-birder astronomer to name an object in the heavens. This is no seagull. Take it from me, a budding astro-ornithologist. “The Crested Caracara Nebula” would have been a much better choice. Notice the crest and the bulky down-turned beak. A seagull sports neither of these features. One might briefly even consider calling it a Blue Jay or Cardinal Nebula, but Caracara is a much better moniker.

Juvenile Herring Gull (I think)

I suspect some compassionate astronomer wanted to placate a lowly bird that gets no respect. You find these monochromatic gulls lurking at the beaches, stealing children’s toys and sweets right from their little hands. That is, when they are not at the town dump foraging among the piles of garbage. You’ll occasionally meet a birder who is a seagull expert, but these are rare ranking right up there with sparrow experts. You have to hand it to them, sorting through the flock to find that lone Franklin Gull, or traveling great distances to see a vagrant Sabine or Glaucous Gull.

Crested Caracara

We have, over the centuries, placed birds in lofty perches in the heavens. For instance, the constellations Cygnus the Swan and Aquila the Eagle. The constellation Grus, Latin for crane, is only visible in the southern hemisphere. I am only aware of this one tribute to the lowly gull, however, and the nebula is not even visible to the naked eye. Pete Dunne and Kevin Karlson wrote a great book entitled “Gulls Simplified”. I bought a copy thinking it would clear up my gull identification woes, but not so fast. These look-alike species progress through their various plumages year by year, making an ID difficult. The common Herring Gull doesn’t even don its adult feathers, free of the brown juvenile traces, until the spring of its fourth year. Give Dunne and Karlson credit for at least trying to clear these muddy waters.

Blue Jay

Back to the heavens. It was a cold clear winter night, shortly before Christmas, when I took this photo of the Seagull Nebula. As I mentioned in an earlier post, my photography and observational techniques honed in daylight tracking the birds, have switched to the night skies and its various wonders. This nebula is near the bright star Sirius, just on the border of the constellations Canis Major (The Great Dog) and Monoceros (The Unicorn). This is both an emission and a reflection nebula. The bright star forming the eye of the gull or caracara is a young, highly energetic star whose radiation excites the surrounding cloud of hydrogen. This excited gas then emits it radiation in the red part of the visible spectrum. My picture is made by stacking several hours of three-minute exposures, capturing photons that left their source 3800 years ago, about the time that the mammoths were heading to extinction down on Earth.

Northern Cardinal

I could bore you to tears describing the differences between astro and bird photography, but let me pass on this one contrast. Birds move randomly and we must chase them with our cameras and lenses hoping for a lucky shot. The stars and nebula move also, but it in a predictable pattern that can be compensated for with a smart motorized telescope mount. What’s even better, that smart mount can slew to any nighttime object we ask it to locate. I doubt we’ll ever have a similar arrangement with the birds.

Best Bird Photos of 2021

Roseate Spoonbill, Platalea ajaja

I’ve started, and then abandoned several blog postings in the last two months; life intervened. But now I find it’s time for the year-end summary of the year’s photos. I was going to write about seeing the amazing Tropical Kingbird near here in the Maryland wetlands, thousands of miles north of its usual haunt. Actually it was spotted from my backseat by the non-birder, Cora and photographed by her husband, Clyde, with his cell phone as I was showing off the scenery of the Blackwater NWR to these visitors from Arizona.

Brown Pelican, Pelecanus occidentalis
Carolina wren, Thryothorus ludovicianus
Tricolor Heron, Egretta tricolor
Red-bellied Woodpecker, Melanerpes carolinus

I meant to write about the recent excursion to the Dinner Ranch with Andy and Mel in remote southern Florida, far from the populated coast, and our sighting of 40+ species (depending on who’s counting) including those of the omni-present singing Meadowlarks.

Eastern Meadowlark, Sturnella magna
Sandhill Cranes, Grus canadensis
Common Gallinule, Gallinula chloropus

Or I could have written about my reluctant conversion to a mirrorless camera, leaving behind the heavier but reliable Canon DSLR. I’m increasingly using a Pansonic Lumix G9 camera which has a small 4/3’s sensor and an array of lighter lenses. The reduced weight will be welcome on the 13-day trip to Costa Rica we’re planning this spring.

Crested Caracara, Caracara cheriway
Great Egret, Ardea alba
Anhinga, Anhinga anhinga
Grooved-billed Ani, Crotophaga sulcirostris

I’ve been having this debate with myself; when does one have enough bird photos? How many shots of fishing Osprey, diving Pelicans, or singing Meadowlarks is enough? Maybe it’s time to bird without a camera, enjoying the view through the binoculars without worrying about the sun angle, camera settings, and obtaining the perfect shot. This debate will go on, and may never conclude, but in the meantime these are my favorite photos from 2021.

Red-shouldered Hawk, Buteo lineatus
Mottled Ducks, Anas fulvigula
Belted Kingfisher, Ceryle alcyon
Black-crowned Night Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax

One last triumph to end the year. Two nemesis birds, which did their best to evade me over the years, finally succumbed to my persistence, or more likely, just dumb luck. One was that Mangrove Cuckoo which we saw at Ding Darling on Sanibel Island, Florida, posing in plain sight and creating a traffic jam of grateful birders on the causeway.

Mangrove Cuckoo, Coccyzus minor
Great Blue Heron, Ardea herodias
American Kestrel, Falco sparverius
Eastern Phoebe, Sayornis phoebe

The other was the Snowy Owl spotted just this week on the dilapidated lighthouse in the Choptank River, off Cambridge, Maryland. My daughter sent me a stuffed Snowy Owl last Christmas, commiserating with my fruitless efforts to see this bird, but I can now return the gift to her. I almost gave up on seeing the bird that was reported on eBird along the Cambridge waterfront, when I noted a small white lump on the side of the lighthouse, about 3/4 mile offshore. A scope and heavily cropped picture below certifies the sighting to the left of the “danger” sign. The picture does not really qualify as great, or even good, but I include it to celebrate this great ending to another year.

Snowy Owl, Bubo scandiacus
Reddish Egrets, Egretta rufescens

I admit to some birding fatigue as the year winds down and as the new hobby of astrophotography takes root, but that Snowy Owl, the celebrating Reddish Egrets above, and the upcoming Christmas Bird Count have revived my enthusiasm once again. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all.

Best Birds of 2020

Boat-tailed Grackle

How can there be a best of anything in 2020, you say. To quote my young friend, “The only thing that’s open is nothing!” Isn’t this another year that will live in infamy, similar to Queen Elizabeth’s recent personal annus horribilis. It’s true that I couldn’t take any foreign birding trips and had to stick to the local patches, but even those gave up some decent shots.

Little Blue Heron
White-eyed Vireo

It seems I have quite a number of shots of passerines, peaking out among the leaves and only partially visible. But isn’t this just the way of our birding lives; fleeting glances of beauty, here for a second and then gone forever. Sounds like there’s a sermon in there, waiting to be preached.

Red-shouldered Hawk
Blue-winged Teal

I’ve chosen the inevitable “F” shots, feeding, flocking, and flying. Birds just being birds while we voyeurs, aka birders, watch and shoot.

Red-bellied Woodpecker
Sandhill Crane

I know it’s just a Mallard, but if you put the accent on the second syllable and look very closely you’ll see some real beauty in that common puddle duck.

Mallard

I try to avoid the classic poses or portrait views, however some sneak anyway by virtue of color, background, or other photographic features. I don’t usually get a clear shot of the Painted Bunting in the “wild” away from the Corkscrew Swamp bird feeder, so I’ve included that lucky view and marvel again at this spectacular bird.

Painted Bunting
Anhinga
Short-tailed Hawk

The Short-tailed Hawk shot is not technically anything special, but reminds me of my first sighting of this nemesis bird. Everyone was reporting this bird in Florida, except me. Finally I learned to look up, way up and found him circling in a kettle of vultures. Looking up; you’d think that would come naturally to a true birder. Sounds like the makings of another sermon.

Eastern Bluebird
Tricolor Heron
Loggerhead Shrike

Lastly, there are shots that just strike my fancy because of color, texture, background, or lighting. In particular I like that dark Grackle posed on nature’s blues and greens, and that Bluebird in a similar setting.

White-eyed Vireo
Red-shouldered Hawks

There’s only six shopping days left before Christmas and perhaps a last chance for a few more lucky shots. Until next year, hope your Christmas and New Year’s holidays are joyful and safe, and thank you again for your interest and comments over this last annus horribilis.