He was only a few months old, but felt that same peculiar urge of his parents and siblings to head south and leave his Texas birthplace behind. The storm blew up unexpectedly from the west, quickly separating him from the flock. The wind carried him over open water, big water, and for two tiresome days he rode the storm eastward. Finally the fury calmed and the green Florida coastline beckoned the exhausted solitary Vermillion Flycatcher.
The eBird rarity alert had been posting news of the flycatcher, with multiple sightings, all at the Oasis visitor’s parking lot of the Big Cypress National Preserve. I had previously seen these gorgeous birds in Texas and Arizona, but for Andy it would be a lifer. In a sense it was also a lifer for Andy’s house guest, John who agreed to join us for the chase. John was not a birder, but an astute observer of nature, human and otherwise, and curious to see the source of all the excitement.
In a previous post called “Chasing Rarities in South Florida” (3/3/2016), I defined a birder’s increasing levels of chasing fervor. Since this was a 100 mile roundtrip, but did not leave the expansive Collier County, it would be considered a mid-level or Class 3 adventure. Retirement allows such fun and games.
We all knew the chance of actually seeing our target bird was very low, as Andy quipped, “one in vermillion”. After all, the Cypress Swamp is vast and birds have wings and fly away in the blink of an eye. At least we could show John some impressive Florida alligators.
The flycatcher family, Tyrannidae, is notorious for its drab plumage, making the identification of its various members one of a birder’s greatest challenges. Not so the Vermilliion Flycatcher. The flamboyant male in breeding attire stands out from great distance as it makes its usual roundtrip from perch, to bug, and back again to the same perch.
Our Florida bird, however, was a more muted juvenile bird, or perhaps the similar adult female, with much more subtle coloring. You Latin scholars know that Pyrocephalus rubinus was aptly named. Ornithologists are deep in the academic weeds sorting out the various subspecies of P. rubinus, including an isolated group on the Galapagos. Some are for splitting the monotypic genus into multiple new species. These DNA debates lose me quickly; wake me up when the final answer is in.
Notorious poachers tried to capture and sell the males to pet stores, however it soon became apparent that the brilliant hue quickly dulled in captivity. I suspect the captors failed to reproduce the bird’s native diet. In any case, this stymied the practice before it could seriously deplete the population.
The Oasis parking lot is almost halfway across the state of Florida, along the old Alligator Alley. It was a busy place with most, I dare say all, of the clientele there to see the large gators. They weren’t disappointed as the boardwalk along the drainage ditch allowed great views of these slithering prehistoric monsters. Wading birds foolishly seemed to ignore the prowling gators which I’m sure imbibe a feathery meal whenever hunger calls.
We finally left the crowd and headed to the parking lot where the flycatcher had been reported. An incredible drama with comedic and tragic elements ensued. A Red-shouldered Hawk had just caught a fish from the ditch and was settling in for quiet lunch up a tree, when he was mobbed by two squawking American Crows who won the prize fish and drove the hawk from the scene.
Andy was busy taking pictures of the chaos and trying to explain to quizzical John why these were American Crows and not Fish Crows, given their obvious diet. As he inched ever closer for the perfect shot a panel truck pulled in and parked directly between the Andy and his quarry. Murphy’s Law strikes again. Just about this same time I noticed a salmon-colored blur in my peripheral vision. It was the Vermillion Flycatcher on the fence, right where the report said he had been days before. As I turned to yell to Andy across the parking lot a motorcycle gang, finished with gator gazing, simultaneously started their bikes and drowned me out. The bird however, luckily ignored the decibels and my frantic gesticulations, which Andy finally saw and comprehended.
Hundreds of shots later the bird moved on, perhaps to Central or South America for the winter, or maybe just to the next parking lot, while we headed back to Naples. John got to see two happy birders celebrate a successful chase and perhaps he now understands his obsessive friends and their strange hobby a little better. His life list is now at 1, and counting.
There are 20 million Vermillion Flycatchers in the world, but only 10% spend any time in the United States. Most of those breed in the far southern portions of Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. Only a scarce few ever visit Florida, and those likely by accident and just along the west coast. We were fortunate enough to see one of these last week.